While I’m sure Michelle Williams has heard the phrase “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it,” I’d rather be subjected to a lifetime of chain restaurant dining than be the one to remind her of its meaning.
That’s why I tried to contain my freak-out last summer when the Richmond Restaurant Group (RRG), which Williams operates with Jared Golden and Ted Wallof, decided to close and revamp deLux, its popular Fan District lounge known for a sleek vibe, excellent happy hour and late-night DJs.
Turns out the trio thought deLux’s location was better suited to a more food-focused establishment. So, after a massive renovation, which included giving the building’s upstairs and downstairs separate entrances and personalities, Pearl Raw Bar made its debut in February.
I initially thought they were nuts, but it turns out they were right.
No matter what you think of RRG and its harem of restaurants — which include The Hill Café, Europa, Water Grill and two locations of The Hard Shell — the constant crowds at these establishments are testament to the fact that this group knows what appeals to a large percentage of Richmond diners and drinkers.
While Pearl’s menu might not break culinary ground, there’s enough variety to appeal to many. A wide array of starters, sandwiches and raw bar items, such as oysters, clams and crab legs, are perfect for lighter appetites while seafood-centric entrées boast reasonable flair.
Pearl’s renovated downstairs has the lived-in feel of a Northeastern seafood house, with white-tiled floor and marble-topped bar. But upstairs, the loungelike feel of deLux remains, with red velvet chairs, black leather couches and a separate bar, all safely separated from those wanting a low-key dinner below.
On a recent Thursday, two girlfriends and I put Pearl’s oysters to the test in the form of a raw oyster sampler ($11.95 for six, $20.95 for 12), Buffalo-fried oysters ($8.95) and oyster shooters ($3-$5).
While our server was sweet, it was quickly clear that Pearl needs time to find its footing with service. She had difficulty explaining the difference between the sampler’s Chesapeake, seaside salt and barcat oysters — a key aspect of the Pearl rebrand — and brought us two Classic shooters (Allagash White Ale and Tabasco, $3) instead of two Pearl shooters (Pearl vodka and Tabasco, $4).
Despite the mix-up, we had no problem polishing off the raw oysters with the help of a vinegary mignonette sauce and horseradish. But the real highlight was the Buffalo-fried version.
Each fried oyster flaunted nicely seasoned breading that didn’t overpower its natural brine, allowing the interplay of spicy Buffalo sauce and cooling blue cheese drizzles to elevate each bite.
While blackened tuna sliders ($11.95) suffered from poor execution, blackened fish tacos ($14.95) and pan-seared rockfish ($18.95) hit the mark.
The sliders’ mini brioche buns were dry, making the overcooked tuna’s dryness even more apparent. The addition of chipotle aioli was nice, but it provided the only real flavor. Thin avocado slices seemed like an afterthought. In a nutshell, they weren’t worth the price tag.
On the other hand, the three generously portioned mahi-mahi tacos ($14.95) were topped with a nicely textured combination of corn and red pepper salsa and avocado slaw made with red cabbage. Here, the same chipotle aioli added smoky depth that enhanced the crispy tang of the toppings. A side of black beans served over rice was mostly uneventful but decently spiced nonetheless.
Perfectly cooked and seasoned, the flaky rockfish filet sat atop a creamy bed of mushroom risotto, which was accented by sliced cherry tomatoes and buttery Brussels sprouts. Roasted garlic-lemon butter took the dish’s richness to potent levels.
In the realm of RRG’s holdings, Pearl fits squarely in the middle — not too casual but not too fancy — and subsequently satisfies both barflies looking for light bites and libations and diners seeking a more proper meal.
Contact Dana Craig at dcraig@timesdispatch.com.
Article source: http://www.timesdispatch.com/entertainment-life/food-dining/restaurant-reviews/article_a6637c77-9c9e-5c28-9dae-189af40bb201.html
Source:
http://searchforthegood.com/dining-out-review-pearl-raw-bar/